The Soho Coho gallery on Creek Street in Ketchikan. (Jack Darrell/KRBD)



Michelle Troll is sitting in the back room of Soho Coho which is her art gallery and retail store located in the downtown of Ketchikan. Metal shelves are filled to the ceiling with t-shirts. The constant stream of customers come and go through the store, hoping to take advantage of the closing sales or simply give words of encouragement, thanksgiving and sadness.

Michelle Troll got to Ketchikan in the year 1984. Her soon-to-be husband, Ray, had been living in the city for an entire year.

“And I’m guessing that we just happened to cross paths,” Michelle said.

Ray was asked to bring her take lunch with her.

“It was late in the summer. Fish were spawning, you know. Also, there was romance in the air literally. I’ve always mixed that things up in my artwork,” he remembered.

The foundations which would later become Soho Coho were already in the ground.

“He was developing the career of an artist. Always an artist. My training included visual communication. This was an ideal match,” said Michelle, who began her career in the department of advertising for The Ketchikan daily news.

The Trolls established their store in 1992, on the upper level of the building it’s currently located – which is over the now defunct Five Star Cafe. It is possible to walk across the wooden footbridge that spans Ketchikan Creek. There is the Chinese restaurant there is a pale pink 2-story wooden clapboard construction set on stilts, above the stream of salmon.

The structure, also known as The Star is a landmark with a longer and more rich background. It was constructed in 1903 and was the title of being the biggest brothel within Ketchikan. The star-shaped metal inlay on the flooring in Soho Coho used to mark the dance floor of the brothel.

“We have moved in and started our retail store, and we kept going. Each year, at the close of the year, we would be like ‘Okay we’ve made enough money to allow us to do this next year.'” Michelle recollected.

Through the years of Soho Coho, they’ve displayed the work of a variety of artists such as Evon Zerbetz, and Grace Freeman. They’ve also featured over 100 T-shirts that are available in shops all over the nation.

The T-shirts feature Ray’s artwork and are usually associated with salmon or the ecological diversity of Alaska. In addition, they’ve been featured in the film Superbadand have been donned on Harrison Ford and Daniel Radcliffe.

Although it is true that the industry of cruise ships has not been accommodating to them, the backing by Ketchikan and Alaskans across the state has helped keep the Trolls operating.

“Our clients from the local area who have brought their family with them and shop throughout the Christmas season and also assist us in the off-season I’m talking about that we could not have accomplished this without them all,” said Michelle.

Ray always wanted the gallery. He doesn’t claim the credit for the operation. It’s the Soho Coho was Michelle’s daughter.

“It it her shop,” he said. “Michelle is her own business in this relationship. I do not have the business head. I don’t have the business head. In reality, it’s Michelle who has been running the company all through these years.”

The two Trolls expressed their gratitude to their employees, which is around 50 Ketchikan residents, including their children, at various times. As the store closes on December 31st the names of their employees are engraved on 50 stockings that are hanging above the fireplace made of cardboard inside the store. Michelle taught them all.

Ray and Michelle Troll outside the Soho Coho with their fish. (Courtesy of Soho Coho)

She shared she has enjoyed watching the employees develop through their careers post retail was an absolute pleasure. She’s also seen the career of her husband grow along as he worked at the department.

“I must say we are proud that Soho Coho has grown, like Ray’s professional career, since Ray’s career has expanded and grew as he gets older. We have also increased in size,” Michelle said.

Closing the store also signals the end of an time. Soho Coho is a popular store. Soho Coho is known for the bright neon sign that hangs in the windows and the large blue fish that hangs above the entrance. If the fish made of wood is removed from the side from the structure, they will have plans to remove the fish.

“It’s scheduled to be placed on an easel, and then lit as Ray always says that everything’s more enjoyable with a flame.”

It’s true. He has said that.

“Everything appears cooler when you have flames. Do you know what you’d like to do to look cool? Add flames to it. Also, I like this cool-burning. So we’re gonna do a cool burning. So Burning Fish,” Ray added in a separate conversation.

“I just try to think of an emotional sense of closure and a sense of ceremony, and also a kind of performing art thing,” Ray explained when asked what the reason was. “Because it’s my job as an artist! I typically perform weird art work.”

The sense of closure is essential for Trolls. According to Michelle the feeling of closure may be slightly more important to Ray but.

“This isn’t easy for him to let go of,” she said.

Although the day-to-day operations were a burden upon Michelle and her team she claimed it served as her husband’s public appearance. It is a place that represents the person they are. For Ray it was his place to perform. However, sometimes it’s crucial to know when it’s time to pull the curtain.

“An old theater lesson is to leave them wanting. If they don’t want you to leave the stage, simply take off the stage. For this portion that is on stage you’re now ready to get off.”

The room that Michelle is in will remain the center of their online store, it won’t be going anywhere.

Local artist from the area, Evon Zerbetz, is making the space gallery. The former brothel that was built perched on stilts over Ketchikan Creek will carry on its tradition of presenting local artists when it moves into the next chapter of its history.


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